March 14-15, 2014
Kalli to Lautamaan and back (46 km); return home
One hundred percent of the route for the last day are unskiable. So, on this particular instance of Rajalta Rajalle, we neither ski from the Russian border, nor to the Swedish border! Instead, we are bussed to Kalli, a little bit north of Kemi, to ski on a track that’s been maintained and groomed for an upcoming local event. It runs north to Lautamaan for 23 kms, and we ski it out and back. Given the abysmal conditions this winter – it’s the warmest winter on record for Finland, and everyone is still in disbelief – they have done an amazingly good job with the track. It’s doubletrack with a skating lane in the middle, piston bully groomed.
But!!!! Yesterday evening another front went through, and it has been raining overnight, hard. That takes the iciness up a notch (hard to believe that’s even possible!). I am soooo tired of double-poling, I’ve decided to leave my worn-off-grip-taped skis alone, and ski on the other pair, klistered. Should be nice for a change. I hoof it to the start from the bus, step in – and discover that one of the bindings is busted. So, run back to the bus before it leaves, and pull out ye olde grip-taped pair, which by now is mostly gone, and so is the glidewax, alas.
Double-poling it is…
The weather front came with some winds, which are strong here at the coast, so we are battling a sustained 15-20 mph headwind with 30 mph gusts for the first half of the ski. In Lautamaan, there is a nice stop in a little hut with kitchen, and volunteers frying up crepes with strawberry jam. Yum! And yum again, because I have doubles!
And then, sadly it’s back out on the track for the last time. The roaring headwind is now a roaring tailwind, which coupled with the ice leads to amazing speeds. Which in turn leads to numerous crashes on the slight descents. I manage two myself, and it is just amazing how far one keeps going on this ice. Fall, and then just skitter and rumble along for another 100 feet or so. Amazing that my tights are not worn to shreds by the icy corduroy. My average speed on today’s 46 kms is well over 14 kmh, and that’s on skis that haven’t seen glidewax in three days despite really abrasive conditions!
We get to Tornio pretty early; I have a last sauna session, a long nap, and the set out for some shopping. The local Intersport store is full with RR skiers; I snag some nice ski pants on sale, and some Start Base Wax Extra that I just read about in the latest edition of Ski Post. Supposed to be good for extra-abrasive conditions, so seems like an appropriate thing to bring home from this trip. And I stock up on rye bread, rye porridge, and of course, Fazer chocolates!
Dinner is fancy and celebratory; after that we have a last gathering where every country does a skit. The Slovenians steal the show with their reindeer safari; I am afraid us Americans come in rather lamely. Lots and lots of klister jokes sprinkled throughout the presentations.
I skip the post-event drinking (Finland + Friday night + celebration – you can imagine) and get to bed to catch a few hours of shut-eye before my god-awfully early flight out of Kemi, to get back to Helsinki (where it is snowing hard!) and to Vermont (where there is half a meter of new snow!!!)
At the airport, which is tiny-tiny, I chat with another skier, from group 2, one of those huge and hardy Finnish guys; a final chance to communally bemoan the conditions. I learn that the broken collarbone and wrist actually involved two different people – and one of them was the ski guide!
I also learn about an event I hadn’t known about. It’s the Lapponia Hiihto, a week-long event held every spring in Muonio. Half-way between Tornio and Hammerfest. Features 3 timed marathons during the week, ranging up to 80 km. Hmmm. Now that is interesting info to stow away.
The waxing redux from this trip: I skied almost 400 kms on two pairs of skis with one application of grip tape each, on the worst stuff imaginable. I had some tape/grip left by the end, but not much under the heel or on the sides (snow/ice plowing). The stuff is definitely not very draggy. In actual snow (as in, flakes, as opposed to ice granules) it might do better in the kick department – but cannot comment on that. Definitely a considerable plus: I spent a total of 5 minutes waxing on this trip (namely, putting grip tape onto skis #2). Most folks spent hours rewaxing very evening, and reklistering a few times every day; or used zero skis, though I have a hard time believing they were quite as fast overall.
The last ski, on icy tracks
Tomi showing off the national colors
Finished at the finish.
It’s snowing in Helsinki!!!